Paris feels uncharacteristically subdued these days. Even the demonstrations (Women’s Day, Palestine) are less raucous. Are we holding our collective breath in anticipation of the JO—Jours Olympiques? Going to be a long wait to exhale. Some predict chaotic crowds, while others argue that most Parisians will flee, leaving empty streets to the athletes and happy few who can afford tickets. And will the town be ready? Even half ready? Workers are literally scrubbing the Louvre’s old stones by hand. The to-be ‘swimmable’ Seine looks as turbidly gray-green as ever. The metro rebuilding is notable for bomb-crater holes in the streets and canceled services, along with a ‘promise’ to double fares during summer. Got to make some money offa this thing! (Hotels have tripled their rates.)  Speaking of hotels, will the thousands of homeless be shipped off to Club Med, to clean up the city? I don’t know anyone who has an event ticket, but plenty who fear terrorist attacks.

This, too, shall pass. In late August, to be exact. May the games be glorious. A special nod to the 200 or so formerly Russian athletes who have emigrated/changed citizenship in order to compete. Some perhaps with an ounce of compunction over Putin’s insanity.

There is good news, even though it’s not properly French to admit it. One: inflation, especially of groceries and other consumer necessities, appears—licked. Why here and not in the US? Perhaps something to do with Macron’s use of his presidency to muscle and jawbone the middlemen, along with people’s willingness to seek cheaper substitutes? Two, climate: France’s CO2 emissions have gone from 550 million tonnes in 2005 (signing of Kyoto Protocol) to 385 in 2023. Even less than during the Covid dip. Three, Orban of Hungary (a serious thorn in everyone’s side except Trump’s, and a major obstacle to support for Ukraine: Orban may just be losing his grip in a landslide of corruption and paedophilia scandals. The new golden boy, once his protegee but since turned against the government, is Peter Magyar. Flash in the pan, saviour of democracy, or next cult figure? Europe is watching.

Speaking of Europe: the election of new deputies to the EU Parliament takes place in June, and this time the outcome will have huge historical significance. Relaxing of onerous regulations, unanimity over immigrant policies—many critical questions on the table. Most crucially, will Europe come together to accelerate building a robust military defense regardless of US policies? Perhaps not, if conservative nationalists prevail.  Ukraine’s survival and Europe’s continued existence as we know it, depend on the June vote.

Words words words. Many of PdV’s favorite art galleries (Perrotin, Karsten Greve)  have strong showings this month. If you are in town, do not miss the mesmerizing paintings of Franco-American artist Vicky Colombet, on display at the Mairie of the 17^tArrondissement, which has granted her a permanent live/work atelier. Some countries know how to thank their artists, right?